by Liz

Day’s mileage : 69

Day’s climb : 5,535 ft

Running total : 1,711

Some days it’s hard to believe everything that happened belonged all in the same day. Today was one of those days. We set off through vineyards around King City, moved into a US Army reservation, climbed up and over the remote Santa Lucia mountain range and finished with 20 miles along the magnificent Big Sur coastline. It was an interesting and pretty spectacular 70 miles.

The yellow dry grass on the hillsides creates a nature lover’s paradise as anything dark shows up in stark contrast. We saw jet black wild pigs, deer, a stoat, scores of ground squirrels scurrying about with their tails in the air, a bald eagle in flight and Philip had a fleeting but positive sighting of a bobcat.

We always knew today would be arduous. We had a total of 5,500 feet to climb and Komoot excelled itself- just climb the barrier and take this high security military road with signs warning us to keep out. Finding a way around that one added some miles to an already long day.

Highlights were two baby black pigs skipping down the yellow hillside to drink from a stream, the headwind being nowhere near as crazy as yesterday, the yellow, red, orange and purple wildflowers along the waysides, reaching the top of the mountain with amazing views, Philip seeing a bobcat, a friendly chat with a fellow traveller on the coast, and no mist and hardly any traffic along the Big Sur coast road.

Lowlights were the heat, swarms of flies and my aching legs on the approach to the mountain, before we’d even got to the start of the main climb of the day.

This evening we’re staying at the beautiful, family run Ragged Point Inn, with French doors in our room overlooking the huge ocean. It’s dark now but I can hear the waves breaking below. We treated ourselves to delicious fish mains in the restaurant. I rode along this stretch in 1987 with my 1.5 man tent and camping stove, staying in the national park hiker-biker campgrounds for $2 a night. A lot has changed in 38 years.

Additional notes

King City to Ragged Point, Monterey and San Luis Obispo counties, CA.

Left at 8.20am. Arrived at 5.30pm.

Weather: A beautiful morning, sunny, the wind light and at times behind us. Warm.

Landscape: Through King City and soon we were riding on a quiet road through hillsides of vines. Hills to the right and mountains further away to the left, same valley as yesterday. Heading into the hills we had yellow dry-grass hills on both sides, great for spotting wildlife. A few homesteads on either side. A lavender farm with people working on the plants, some in full flower, some budding. First snack stop at 10 miles. A small community, quite run down, a poor area. The road was leading to the army base and there wasn’t much along the way, it was remote. Evidence of a forest fire, the undergrowth burned away and lower branches of the trees charred. Army land on both sides of the road, which acted as a nature reserve too. Occasional cars and military vehicles passed us. Entering the Fort Hunter Liggett compound through an arch. Lots of troops in fatigues, camouflage tents and convoys of armoured vehicles. On to the Nacimiento-Ferguson Road which crosses the Santa Lucia Range, to begin with an outlying part of the military zone, more remote but with evidence of army activity. The Los Padres National Forest. Logs smouldering, smoke and a burning smell as they use fire strategically to maintain the environment. Hardly any traffic, the odd car or motorbike, and a convoy of three military vehicles, the lead driver giving us a friendly wave when we passed them parked up later on. The landscape opened out to yellow mountains with deciduous trees dotted across it. The main mountain range ahead became clearer. Down into a valley where the temperature became hotter. A stream in the valley bottom. Climbing out of the valley the mountain proper, up and up in auto mode along a narrow windy road with prolific wildflowers growing in the rock face and verges, trees and shade and beautiful views both up and down. At the top were open views to the sea but so far below it didn’t look quite like the sea. Baking sun and no shade. The road visible snaking down the mountain towards the sea. Seven miles down the other side, steep in places, twisty and turny, narrow, a few places where the road had eroded away. Hot in the sun and cold in the shade. Amazing views of the mountains, ridges, gullies then around the corner – there was the blue ocean way below, and the Big Sur coastal road, which was completely empty of traffic. The sea was calm away from the shore, gentle ripples only, turquoise and powder blue further out. No mist, just sunshine and blue sky. Reaching the Big Sur coastal road. 20 stunning miles with no traffic, back on my 1987 route, the sun glinting off the sea creating little sparkling flashes. Stopped at a picnic site and had tea and Reeses – perfection! I’ve had mini Reeses almost every day since finishing the out-of-date biscuits, as my after-lunch chocolate.

Towns: King City.

Trails: The Nacimiento-Ferguson Road is a top experience. Who would know it was there if it hadn’t been for the landslide and road closure?

State roads: Highway 1, deserted.

Breakfast: Porridge and bananas looking out on our view of a parked lorry, a petrol station and the 101 flyover.

Lunch spot: In the hot valley, walking round constantly to avoid the flies landing on me.

Dinner, at Ragged Point Inn restaurant: Halibut and chips for Philip. Sea bass with rice and asparagus for me. We shared a ‘Landslide chocolate cake’ big enough for three.

Wildlife: Wild jet-black pigs – two young ones running down the hill to drink at the river and later an adult. Deer. Hundreds of ground squirrels darting about with tails in the air and scurrying into their burrows. A stoat. A bald eagle wheeling overhead, the first we’ve seen in a long time. We stopped for a sandwich in the shade of a tree and the exotic bird sounds and dry grass landscape made it feel like an African savanna. A swarm of bees on a branch where we stopped for a snack (we moved further away). Philip saw a bobcat in a tree on the way up the mountain. A sea lion barking along the Big Sur coast. Many martin-like birds nesting in the porch at the Ragged Point Inn, their twittering sounding almost like whale calls.

Plants: Tall, flowering yuccas. Many other wildflowers.

Things we saw: Tractors mowing in between the rows of vines. Machinery that straddled the vines, looking like a tall tractor on two long legs. A road sign that read ‘All vessels subject to mussel inspection. Vessel certification required prior to launch’ which seemed strange so far inland.

People we spoke to or saw: The military vehicles were driven by noticeably respectful drivers. A man at the Big Sur picnic spot who was on a three-year road trip and full of respect for how far we’ve come.

Incidents: We were both nervous about the long mileage, big ascent and anticipated headwind, especially after yesterday’s crazy wind. But we were also determined to make it work and left the motel feeling chipper. We didn’t use battery assistance for the first 11 miles and it was extremely hard work as the route was all uphill. I cycled in my short-sleeved top for the first time in ages. My arms are so white it looks like we’ve just set out on our journey, not over five weeks in, it’s just been so cold I’ve ridden most days in my down jacket and waterproof top. Komoot tried to send us on a number of very dodgy routes (‘No trespassers’, ‘US Army. Keep out’ (oh Komoot!) none of which we fell for. The workarounds added miles to the route. Travelling through the army compound it was strange to be in the middle of a military zone. I was surreptitious taking any photos and kept my eyes on the road. In the valley bottom along the Nacimiento Road I was hot and tired and needed a rest but when we stopped swarms of flies descended. I stopped anyway to eat and use a bush and Philip went on.

Shopping: No shops!

Accommodation: Room 26 at the Ragged Point Inn with French doors that look out on one of the tall, spired plants the hummingbirds love and the wide-open ocean beyond. The inn is run by the same family that started it in the 1950s. A relaxed feel, gorgeous views and we fit right in here.

Today’s sound: The African savanna sound approaching Fort Hunter Liggett. Waves crashing below through the open room door.

Today’s smell: Smoke of smouldering forest fires. Eucalyptus trees on the Santa Lucia mountain range.

Special moments: Feeling intrepid both in the military zone and on the remote Nacimiento-Fergusson Road. Ahead up the mountain, I could see Philip coming up the switchbacks below. Making it without problems with battery or headwind. Philip seeing the bobcat. The two big ascents being easy. The spectacular final 20 miles along the Big Sur coast.

Positive experience from my journal: Seeing the Big Sur coastline from the mountain.

Appreciation from my journal: Meeting today’s challenge head on and looking after myself when I needed lunch.

Blog comments from Helen C and Kathy Fraser. Helen: ‘A lot may have changed in the last 38 years but Liz, your courage and sense of adventure certainly hasn’t changed – well done, you are an amazing woman. And well done Philip for supporting Liz so the adventure could go ahead. I hope your legs feel strong again really soon. We’re glad you haven’t been shot at on some military land! Komoot has got a lot to answer for, by the sounds of it’. Kathy: ‘Bravo to you all for that day of climbing! You are certainly seeing quintessential landscapes of the west coast… and hitting peak wildflower season there! Liz, did you do the ’87 trip alone?’ [Yes] ‘Wow, Liz! I’m even more inspired, now!’

Social media replies from Sharon, Terry Burridge, Francisca Blackman, Matt Pottage and Colin Darling. Terry: ‘Full marks for grit and determination!’ Francisca: ‘What a lovely description. Extraordinary ride’. Matt: ‘Looks like Yucca whipplei – a firm favourite of mine!’ Colin: ‘Wow. Glad you did not try and nip through the military zone! I am envious of some of the sights and sounds and smells, but not of some of the exhaustion’. My reply: ‘Colin, there’d be a lot more exhaustion and tears without the e in my bike’.

Video: Approaching the mountain (3m). Climbing the mountain (9m). Down the other side (9m30s + 14m40s + 11m30s). Along the Big Sur coast (12m40s + 11m25s + 10m + 23m + 41m40s)

Audio: Sounds of the savanna on the way to Fort Hunter Liggett (39s).

Mementos: Two Ragged Point restaurant receipts. A Ragged Point business card and pad of paper.