by Liz

Day’s mileage : 54

Running total : 680

Yesterday evening’s walk on Agate Beach had an unexpected end. A school group of kids and teachers were leaving their beach camp and invited us to take over their roaring log fire. So we enjoyed the warmth and atmosphere as the sun set, then gifted it on to a group of young men staking out for the night. 

We had a 54 mile day today which was a bit steep as it’s our sixth consecutive day of riding, but tomorrow is a rest day. The morning started grey but at 11am the sun came out and immediately the leaden sea was transformed into its amazing bright blue with shimmering waves. 

On the way out of Newport we crossed a long bridge with no bike margin. Some drivers here are very courteous and I was touched that one particular driver kept well back and prevented any cars from passing us until we were on the other side. This meant we were not only safe but could also enjoy the views on either side. I spontaneously blew the driver a kiss to say thank you but over the course of the day I devised a better sign of gratitude – two waves with a fist on my heart in between. Later another driver did the same for us through a tunnel, putting on his hazard lights to escort us through. I love these strangers who care. 

We passed many empty stretches of beach today, the waves pounding the sand, and stopped at Seal Rock, covered in basking brown seals. No whale sightings today but over lunch near Yachats we watched a lone surfer wrestling the waves. I have to say I was glad he wasn’t my son, but he emerged unscathed as we left. Someone had placed on our bench two small ceramic tokens which I felt we’d earned, having reached 700 miles today since arriving in the States. So they have come with us. 

We had an incredible 20 mile stretch from Yachats southwards, climbing one headland after another, magnificent stretches of the Oregon coast before us bathed in sunshine. All along, the hillsides sloped steeply to the ocean, some forested, others covered in flowering yellow broom interspersed with wild purple irises. 

The last ten miles to Florence were inland and a slog to be honest, but a warm welcome awaited us at our cottage – tea, homemade bread and jam, ginger scones and a hot shower. Our hosts came to say hello and very sweetly wanted to know all about our trip. Tonight we are having two enormous pizzas for dinner and there will be no alarm going off at 6.30 tomorrow morning. Both of those things will make a welcome change.  

Additional notes

Agate Beach (Newport) to Florence, Lincoln, Lane and Douglas counties, OR.

Left at 9.45am. Arrived at 4.15pm.

Weather: Overcast at first. Sunny from 11 when the sea transformed into picturesque blue, the waves sparkling. Cold.

Landscape: The Newport coast with Elizabeth in a lot of the road names. Frog ditches (not as nice as frog heavens). Beaver heavens (small lakes with floating tree trunks). A swamp area with beautiful Victorian homes on the far side, overlooking the sea. Roads lined with spruce and shorter, rounder Oregon pine. Stretches of deserted sandy beaches, the sea pounding the shore all day. Various look-out points including Lost Creek. Seal Rock covered with brown seals. Homes, holiday homes and small businesses. A 20-mile stretch of magnificent coastline from Yachats. The Heceta Lighthouse on a promontory. 10 slow miles from the sand dunes inland to Florence.

Towns: Waldport with wood carving shops.

Trails: Not one.

State roads: The 101, busy but with a good shoulder.

Breakfast: No record! Fruit and yogurt certainly, and most likely porridge.

Lunch spot: Yachats overlooking the ocean, watching a young man surfing in 10-foot waves, one leg frequently protruding above the waves. I found two decorative ceramic counters on the bench.

Dinner, made by Philip: Pizza. Chocolate cake, raspberries and ice cream.

Wildlife: Turkey vultures. Pelicans. Seals.

Plants: Wild broom. Wild iris.

Things we saw: Tsunami hazard signs. Hilltop Café and Bistro at Waldport – I sent a picture to the team at Wisley. Cape Perpetua Bridge.

People we spoke to or saw: Paula the Agate Beach motel manager, who warned us the road is twisty and drivers would be looking at the view, not us. Bonnie and Pip, our gentle hosts, fascinated by our trip.

Incidents: Over a bridge outside Newport, a driver stayed behind and ushered us safely across. We stopped for a snack at Beachside where we could hear the sea on the other side of a big hedge but couldn’t see it.

Shopping: Safeway, Florence.

Accommodation: A nice little home with homemade bread left for us, along with jam, ginger scones, waffles and milk in the fridge – the first time milk has been provided.

Today’s sound: The sea pounding on other side of hedge at Beachside State Park.

Today’s smell: Bonnie’s lavender.

Special moments: Reached 700 miles on the clock. Two caring drivers who escorted us along tricky stretches – one bridge and one tunnel. Finding the ceramics on our lunch bench. The 20-mile stretch of magnificent coastline from Yachats, steep hillsides plunging to meet the ocean. Not having any close calls on the way. Keeping Philip ahead as he wasn’t feeling 100%. Tea and half a ginger scone each.

Positive experience from my journal: The amazing coastline along the 20-mile stretch.

Appreciation from my journal: Being warm and cheery with everyone we met.

Blog comments from Julia Gold and Piers. Julia: ‘Congrats on reaching your well-deserved rest day! We were happy to read that we followed in your tracks on Slab Creek Rd today. What a lovely forest road! After riding through Sitka spruce forest for so many days, we discovered the first Redwood trees at the top of that road! We will be resting as well tomorrow’. Piers: ‘Stay safe, both of you, and have a fabulous rest day’.

Social media reply from Sharon: ‘Looks absolutely amazing’.

Video: The ocean at Lost Creek (10s). Philip cycling along the coast (30s).

Audio: Possibly waiting for a train to blare? (26s).

Mementos: Safeway receipt, Florence.