by Liz

Day’s mileage : 54

Running total : 680

Yesterday evening’s walk on Agate Beach had an unexpected end. A school group of kids and teachers were leaving their beach camp and invited us to take over their roaring log fire. So we enjoyed the warmth and atmosphere as the sun set, then gifted it on to a group of young men staking out for the night. 

We had a 54 mile day today which was a bit steep as it’s our sixth consecutive day of riding, but tomorrow is a rest day. The morning started grey but at 11am the sun came out and immediately the leaden sea was transformed into its amazing bright blue with shimmering waves. 

On the way out of Newport we crossed a long bridge with no bike margin. Some drivers here are very courteous and I was touched that one particular driver kept well back and prevented any cars from passing us until we were on the other side. This meant we were not only safe but could also enjoy the views on either side. I spontaneously blew the driver a kiss to say thank you but over the course of the day I devised a better sign of gratitude – two waves with a fist on my heart in between. Later another driver did the same for us through a tunnel, putting on his hazard lights to escort us through. I love these strangers who care. 

We passed many empty stretches of beach today, the waves pounding the sand, and stopped at Seal Rock, covered in basking brown seals. No whale sightings today but over lunch near Yachats we watched a lone surfer wrestling the waves. I have to say I was glad he wasn’t my son, but he emerged unscathed as we left. Someone had placed on our bench two small ceramic tokens which I felt we’d earned, having reached 700 miles today since arriving in the States. So they have come with me. 

We had an incredible 20 mile stretch from Yachats southwards, climbing one headland after another, magnificent stretches of the Oregon coast before us bathed in sunshine. All along, the hillsides sloped steeply to the ocean, some forested, others covered in flowering yellow broom interspersed with wild purple irises. 

The last ten miles to Florence were inland and a slog to be honest, but a warm welcome awaited us at our cottage – tea, homemade bread and jam, ginger scones and a hot shower. Our hosts came to say hello and very sweetly wanted to know all about our trip. Tonight we are having two enormous pizzas for dinner and there will be no alarm going off at 6.30 tomorrow morning. Both of those things will make a welcome change.