by Philip

Day’s mileage : 45

Running total : 626

Today’s planned mileage is shorter than usual so we allowed ourselves a slower start – however the ocean woke us early and we watched the crashing waves from our bedroom window. Breakfast included some coconut based yogurts and blueberries from our host while chatting with her and enjoying the beautiful sunny start to the day. Riding out of Neskowin we did a mile on the 101 before turning onto Slab Creek Road, a meandering, quiet road running initially along the creek before climbing 700’ into the hills over 6 miles. We passed foxgloves just emerging, broom with red and yellow flowers, and saw the occasional robin and dragonfly. The area was forested again with majestic tall pines and amazingly peaceful – over the 10 miles on this road we were not passed by a single car, and saw only five in the opposite direction and a cyclist. After the climb to 719’ we reaped our reward – 3.5 miles back down to sea level without turning a pedal. On rejoining the 101 we found a little shady glen for our first snack stop of the day. 

As we continued we lost the forests and went through more open areas, soon becoming more built up, passing the Cape Foulweather Coffee Company and then into Lincoln City – a sprawling, large, town. The road widened to two lanes in each direction and a marked cycle lane for some of it. As we left the town, we stopped at a viewpoint which had information about a tsunami in the 18th century and explained how to behave in the event of a warning. From there we went on about 8 miles, passing over rivers and estuaries, often seeing the sea, until we reached Depoe  Bay which we’d been told was a good place to watch for whales. Boasting the world’s smallest harbour, we saw people on whale-watching trips, and sat on a cliff-edge bench in the sun. No whales, but a seal, two Californian brown pelicans and numerous anonymous seabirds. The entry to the harbour from the sea is treacherous and we marvelled at the skill of the captain of a fishing boat as he navigated between the rocks.  

Immediately after writing the previous paragraph we saw three whales – we’d been told to look for the spouts as they exhale, and once we’d got our eye in we found we could see them reasonably easily. What a treat!

From Depoe Bay we climbed up to Cape Foulweather itself via a little one way road adjacent to the highway. The cape had the most spectacular views and fascinating geology with helpful information boards. From there it was (nearly) all downhill, with a strong tailwind carrying us quickly along Beverley Beach – a mere 2 miles long expanse of sand, with two cyclists, two people on foot and one dog occupying it.

As we’ve recorded here previously, we sometimes have to buy food at little stores – not so today where we had the choice of all the big names … so the main food shop was courtesy of Safeway, followed by a visit to Fred Myer (he of puncture fame yesterday) to buy a new inner tube (unsuccessfully) before retracing our steps (into a headwind of course) to find our motel. 

When we checked in I asked about bike storage, and the manager responded by moving us to a different room with a carport … and a direct view of the ocean from our lounge and deck. It’s a very similar view to last night, just a little further away – we are very happy to be here, listening to the sea and enjoying the evening sunshine.

Additional notes

Neskowin to Agate Beach (Newport), Tillamook and Lincoln counties, OR.

Left at 10.20am. Arrived at 5.15pm.

Weather: Sunny all day with a strong, cold tail wind.

Landscape: 10 miles along Slab Creek Road through Siuslaw National Forest, up and over the mountain, not a single car passed us. Frog heaven in a valley with hills on either side. A shining river meandering away with forested hills behind. Boiler Bay, beautiful. Depoe Bay. Cape Foulweather, astonishing vistas. Two-mile long Beverley Beach, almost deserted.

Towns: Sprawling Lincoln City with its disappearing bike paths laced with sunken holes and raised drain covers. Newport.

Trails: Otter Rock Loop, a quieter road with spectacular views of the coast, steep hillsides of spruce plummeting to the sea. Sunny, open views of the coast then 20 seconds later a deep, cold ravine. Amazing views of Cape Foulweather.

State roads: The 101, busy but mostly with a shoulder.

Breakfast: Porridge. Fruit with Nancy’s yogurt and blueberries.

Lunch spot: A cliff-edge bench at Depoe Bay, watching for whales.

Dinner, made by Liz: Roast potato with courgettes, mushrooms and prawns, garnished with lime. Banana, peach and pear with vanilla yogurt. Tea and chocolate chip cookies.

Wildlife: A hummingbird on Nancy’s porch. A robin. Dragonflies. Four deer. A seal. Pelicans. First ever sightings of whales – watching their spouts, at Depoe Bay. Many sea birds.

Plants: Foxgloves. Wild red and yellow broom.

Things we saw: A mountain lion warning on a noticeboard. We read about a tsunami that occurred in the Lincoln City area in 1700 and wiped out numerous indigenous communities. Boats entering Depoe Bay harbour, the smallest in the world.

People we spoke to or saw: Two tourists at Cape Foulweather – we took photos for them and they took for us, amazed at what we are doing. A lady who had talked to Philip while I was shopping greeted me like a celebrity when I emerged and said she thought she should ask for our autographs! Paula, the Agate Beach Motel manager, who loves her job and gave us a wonderful room. The school group leader who gave us their beach fire.

Incidents: Doing a U-turn on the 101 after missing a turning – it felt like attempting a U-turn on the M25. We didn’t know it wasn’t permitted to cook sea food at the motel, too late when we found out so we cooked it anyway, gently.

Shopping: Safeway at Newport. Fred Myers, looking for a new inner tube.

Accommodation: A divine suite in the Agate Beach Motel, overlooking the ocean, with everything we need.

Today’s sound: The crackling of the fire on Agate Beach.

Today’s smell: Hot pine needles beside the 101.

Special moments: The road through the Siuslaw National Forest. Seeing the whales. Working out how to join the Safeway member scheme myself. The view from our room. Making a gourmet meal for us. Giving Philip the hot water bottle. On Agate Beach a school group left us their roaring log fire which we sat beside watching the ocean. We passed it on to two young men setting up camp for the evening, along with the responsibility of putting it out when they left.

Positive experience from my journal: Being given the fire and sitting beside it.

Appreciation from my journal: Feeling fitter and stronger this evening, less achy.

Blog comments from Taffa, K and Jenny. Cathy: ‘I’m so happy that you saw your first whales!’. K: ‘Thank you Liz and Philip for this lovely blog. Reading about your travels has become a highlight of my day and I am eagerly awaiting the next instalment’. Jenny: ‘Fascinated by all the flora and fauna on your trip. Really enjoying your posts. Very well crafted and illustrated with little details which bring it to life’.

Social media replies from Olenka and Doug Clark.

Mementos: Safeway receipt, Newport.