by Liz

Day’s mileage : 49

Running total : 581

My legs, which first appeared two days ago, were firmly tucked under three layers again today. It’s been our wettest day yet on the road.

We pedalled through coastal landscapes and lakes, inland through farming communities and back to the coast this evening. Beside the sea pelicans flew past casually and we spotted a belted kingfisher. Inland the landscape was more open, grassy fields and hedges with forested hills swathed in mist.

On reaching Tillamook this morning we sheltered in a supermarket forecourt for our first stop and two things happened. First yesterday’s two cyclists rode up and we bonded immediately as we shared routes, reasons and experiences. While lapping up their company Philip’s rear tyre quietly deflated until it was completely flat. Warren and Julia, and a passing bike shop owner, were all poised to help but in fact Philip had no trouble changing the inner tube and an hour later we were ready for off. Truly a pro! 

This afternoon the hills were swallowed up and we were left with rain and mist. I felt so lucky to be doing this ride, never mind a bit of rain. I felt even luckier when, cold and damp, we reached our destination. This is the first time we’ve stayed in a room in an Air BnB host’s home. It’s quite a place. Nancy lives in Neskowin (pronounced ‘Nesquin’) on a cliff overlooking the ocean, in a 1920 house that was owned by her grandparents. I’m sitting in front of the huge log fire, nice and warm now, our kit drying nearby. The sun has come out and the sea is distinctly lively, dozens of waves constantly rolling and crashing, the spray forming a mist that hangs in the air. This is calm apparently. 

It’s so nice to be keeping in touch with friends and family through this blog. We are answering all comments so please look back if you’ve left a reply. We find ourselves worrying we write too much but receiving a request yesterday to give a talk when we get back was reassuring (thanks Barbara!). Philip recently discovered the stats system and we were amazed, shocked actually, to find around 80-90 people are logging on each day. Thank you all for your support! Time for some supper now overlooking the waves as the sun goes down.

Additional notes

Rockaway Beach to Neskowin, Clatsop and Tillamook counties, OR.

Left at 9.30am. Arrived at 5.30pm (soaking wet!).

Weather: Cold. Misty. Drizzle. Later persistent rain.

Landscape: Frog heaven. A lake with a single fisherman. Coast with tall rocks (sea stacks) in the water. Flat open farmland, grassy fields with hedges and forested hills behind, the hills misty at first then completely hidden.

Towns: Bay City (very small, not city-like at all). Tillamook (complete with dairy factory). Pacific City (also small).

Trails: None.

State roads: The 101, quiet at first then busy. Quieter roads later.

Breakfast: Porridge with raspberries and banana.

Lunch spot: A lovely clearing by the road near Cloverdale.

Dinner, made by Philip: Bought lasagne. Fruit and crazy expensive ice cream.

Wildlife: Pelicans. Belted kingfisher.

Plants: A bit too wet to notice. Red geraniums for sale outside Fred Meyers.

Things we saw: Lots of grey mist and cold rain.

People we spoke to or saw: Flaggers stopping the traffic and waving us through with a cheery ‘Be safe!’. Sheltering outside Fred Meyers Julia and Warren Gold (our alter egos from yesterday) arrived and we talked for ages. A former bike shop owner stopped and chatted while Philip changed the inner tube, I suspect in case we needed help. A Mexican chap admired our bikes and chatted to me while Philip was inside buying the pepper spray. A lady with an RV in a car park where we were putting on waterproofs warned us of all the ne’er-do-wells we might meet and where. Nancy, who we loved, distressed by the political situation.

Incidents: Philip wasn’t feeling all that well this morning. First puncture. We bought pepper spray to ward off savage dogs. Trying to get our wet selves and all our wet things into Nancy’s house without wrecking her beautiful wood floor.

Shopping: The Neskowin grocery – ouch! Super expensive, but it was WARM in there.

Accommodation: A room in Nancy’s grandparents’ 1920s family home on the cliff overlooking the pounding ocean, with huge log fire and full of fascinating collected objects. Comforting country music playing quietly in the kitchen.

Today’s sound: The air rushing out of Philip’s tyre the first time he tried to inflate it. Goats calling.

Today’s smell: Wood smoke from Nancy’s fire.

Special moments: Finding there are so many people looking at the blog each day. Looking after Philip when he wasn’t feeling too well this morning. Riding past the Tillamook factory site where all our yogurt is made. Getting to know Warren and Julia. Philip fixing the puncture quite easily. Feeling lucky to be here despite the soaking rain and tiredness.

Positive experience from my journal: The view from Nancy’s sitting room and the log fire.

Appreciation from my journal: Being sociable, funny.

Blog comments from my mother, Jenny, Aisha (teacher friend of Cathy’s) and Lorna McGregor. Jenny: ‘I’m glad you are well practised at cycling in cold and wet conditions… Loving your descriptions of the scenery and wildlife’. Aisha: ‘Loving your journey! Beautiful descriptions of your travels Liz! Jealous of the log fire. From an English teacher in London!’ Lorna: ‘So glad you are both enjoying your adventure; everything appears to be going smoothly thanks to all your detailed planning. I look forward to catching up with your news at the end of each day and am really enjoying your fabulous photographs’.

Social media reply from Kira.

Mementos: Fred Meyer receipt, Tillamook (pepper sprays). Neskowin Provisions receipt, Neskowin ($60.71).