by Liz

Day’s mileage : 49

Running total : 581

My legs, which first appeared two days ago, were firmly tucked under three layers again today. It’s been our wettest day yet on the road.

We pedalled through coastal landscapes and lakes, inland through farming communities and back to the coast this evening. Beside the sea pelicans flew past casually and we spotted a belted kingfisher. Inland the landscape was more open, grassy fields and hedges with forested hills swathed in mist.

On reaching Tillamook this morning we sheltered in a supermarket forecourt for our first stop and two things happened. First yesterday’s two cyclists rode up and we bonded immediately as we shared routes, reasons and experiences. While lapping up their company Philip’s rear tyre quietly deflated until it was completely flat. Warren and Julia, and a passing bike shop owner, were all poised to help but in fact Philip had no trouble changing the inner tube and an hour later we were ready for off. Truly a pro! 

This afternoon the hills were swallowed up and we were left with rain and mist. I felt so lucky to be doing this ride, never mind a bit of rain. I felt even luckier when, cold and damp, we reached our destination. This is the first time we’ve stayed in a room in an Air BnB host’s home. It’s quite a place. Nancy lives in Neskowin (pronounced ‘Nesquin’) on a cliff overlooking the ocean, in a 1920 house that was owned by her grandparents. I’m sitting in front of the huge log fire, nice and warm now, our kit drying nearby. The sun has come out and the sea is distinctly lively, dozens of waves constantly rolling and crashing, the spray forming a mist that hangs in the air. This is calm apparently. 

It’s so nice to be keeping in touch with friends and family through this blog. We are answering all comments so please look back if you’ve left a reply. We find ourselves worrying we write too much but receiving a request yesterday to give a talk when we get back was reassuring (thanks Barbara!). Philip recently discovered the stats system and we were amazed, shocked actually, to find around 80-90 people are logging on each day. Thank you all for your support! Time for some supper now overlooking the waves as the sun goes down.


8 responses to “Day 12 : Rockaway Beach to Neskowin”

  1. Sue Valentine Avatar
    Sue Valentine

    Aficionado. Facjnqring experience from outer space wow But can’t work it properly, must say goodbye for now.

    1. Liz Avatar
      Liz

      You work it just fine, Mum 🙂

  2. Jenny Avatar
    Jenny

    I’m glad you are well practised at cycling in cold and wet conditions….Loving your descriptions of the scenery and wildlife. Greetings from Port Eynon on the Gower where K & I are enjoying our own little break. We missed your expertise identifying wild flowers. No eagles but lots of butterflies.

    1. Liz Avatar
      Liz

      Honestly Jenny our LEJoG adverse conditions couldn’t have been better preparation for this. Rain coming next week. Wishing you both a wonderful weekend on the Gower ❤️❤️

  3. Aisha Avatar
    Aisha

    Loving your journey! Beautiful descriptions of your travels Liz! Jealous of the log fire. From an English teacher in London! 🙂

    1. Liz Avatar
      Liz

      Thank you for your lovely encouraging message, Aisha! Last night’s log fire was on the beach 🔥

  4. Lorna Avatar
    Lorna

    It’s Thursday so I thought I’d send you greetings from Wisley. Everything is going well in your absence – your archives are in safe hands.

    So glad you are both enjoying your adventure; everything appears to be going smoothly thanks to all your detailed planning. I look forward to catching up with your news at the end of each day and am really enjoying your fabulous photographs.

    Stay safe and happy pedalling x

    1. Liz Avatar
      Liz

      Hello Lorna! I thought of you at lunchtime here yesterday but realised you’d already long gone home by then! Glad all is going well at Wisley. The trip is amazing so far. Rest day tomorrow then rain on the way next week 🌧️ Thanks for checking in on our progress!

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