by Liz

Day’s mileage : 52

Running total : 913

I have loved our first day in California. We set off earlier than usual. Not really liking our accommodation last night made us super efficient at getting ready and on our way. It’s the only place we’ve felt uncomfortable in three weeks so that’s good going.

The day’s riding brought three very different landscapes. The first 10 miles were on a sleepy road through rural farmland around Smith River, totally unspoilt, cockerels crowing, fields of cows, sheep and horses and a herd of wild elk. In Oregon there were hundreds of Winnebagos each towing a smaller (but not that small) vehicle. The only things being towed around Smith River were livestock. The inhabitants were friendly, raising a hand in greeting as we passed by.

After crossing the 101 we entered redwood country. We spent four wonderful hours among the quiet, towering giants. Many people travel to see these wonders of the world but I felt satisfied to have ridden 900 miles to get here, like we’d really earned the pleasure of experiencing them.

We’d altered the day’s route to ride through Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park but the route didn’t go to plan. It wanted to take us across the Smith River on a ‘summer bridge’, which may possibly be a ford in summer but today was a wide stretch of beautiful green river. There was no bridge in sight – see picture. A four mile workaround through Hiouchi paid off as we ended up following a long stretch of peaceful, unmade road through redwood paradise. A tiny chipmunk was busily foraging for his lunch while we had ours.

Leaving the forest, it was a jolt to get back to civilisation, road signs, mail boxes and the like. After a detour to Crescent City to buy food we finally joined the 101 heading south along the Redwood Highway. More giants to enjoy but here we had to pay attention to other road users. After an hour of climbing through dense forest we were suddenly out in the open, looking down at the ocean and along the coast to Klamath, our destination for the night, about eight miles south.

We are staying in a cabin tonight, guests of the Yurock tribe. We were a bit done in but it seemed churlish not to sample the hot tub in the garden. Philip lit the wood burner which is crackling companionably as we enjoy supper. Tomorrow is the last day’s cycling for week three then we’re looking forward to a rest day, when Cathy joins us in McKinleyville on Saturday evening.