by Liz

Day’s mileage : 29

Running total : 820

I’m writing this in warm evening sunshine on the balcony of a hotel room on a stretch of coastline in Gold Beach, Oregon. It’s a cheap and cheerful room with a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean. There are six turkey vultures wheeling around hunting and we just watched one carry off some prey. Lines of pelicans occasionally cruise past above the water. We’re trying to decide if we can see heads of seals or dorsal fins of whales through the binoculars. According to the hotel manager, they could be either. 

Today started with a different weather game: rain vs Taylors. Waterproofs on = rain stops. Waterproofs off = rain starts. Having unpacked them and put them on, it stopped by the time we got to the gate on our way out. But we felt like we’d won because as long as we kept them on it hardly rained at all.

We had a shorter ride for our last full day in Oregon, cycling just under 30 miles. The sky was steely grey and the sea moody all morning but this afternoon the sun came out and blue was restored. We ate lunch beside a deserted beach, watching the pounding waves for signs of life.

The flora is more advanced in Oregon, trilliums are going over, and wild iris, lupins and foxgloves are in flower. There are many graceful ferns and elegant seeding grasses, as well as numerous shrubs and smaller plants I don’t recognise, abounding in waysides and forest margins. If I was 19th-century plant collector David Douglas, who explored the Pacific Northwest, I’d have sent them all home – except the yellow skunk plant which I dislike (even in the Long Ponds at Wisley) and grows prolifically here. 

Towards the end of today’s ride our route took us off the 101 and through quiet, mature forest. I loved that stretch, cool and peaceful. Then past pale blue weatherboarded cliff top homes and across the Rogue River with another bridge angel who hung back and stopped the traffic overtaking until we reached the other side.

All through Oregon we’ve had people come and talk to us, especially outside grocery stores. It’s as though supermarkets are a chat up place. Gold Beach was no exception and it was a pleasure to talk to a lady who basically just wanted inspiration to get out on her e-bike. I gave her plenty of encouragement. 

Tomorrow we reach the California coastline, which promises to be as stunning as any we’ve seen so far. Off the Washington coast the water is too glacial to swim in safely, and it’s much too rough off the Oregon coast, but maybe our swimming kit will get some use as we head further south.

Additional notes

Port Orford to Gold Beach, Curry county, OR.

Left at 10.30am. Arrived at 3.30pm.

Weather: A showery, misty old morning. Sunny from midday, with blue sky and sea restored.

Landscape: Coastline with waves pounding the shore, misty mountains and beautiful rocks out at sea. Inland along a steep-sided gorge beside a beck, around the foot of Humbug Mountain (where our old-timer from yesterday lives). The coastline with dark grey, sandy beaches. A quiet road towards Otter Point, gorgeous mature forest, the ocean visible through the trees. Residential road with pale blue homes overlooking the sea. Bridge over the Rogue River, a thoughtful driver providing safe passage.

State roads: The 101 from the bottom of the hill, not too busy.

Breakfast: Mountains of toast, trying to use up Bonnie’s homemade bread.

Lunch spot: Picnic table beside the beach, pounding waves.

Dinner, made by Philip: Leftover tuna pasta with salad. Strawberries and Greek yogurt. Tea and chocolate satin pie.

Wildlife: Turkey vultures. A 17-pelican line-up. Dark things in the water, either seals or maybe whales.

Plants: Wild iris. Lupins. Elegant ferns. A new yellow flower near the waterfalls. Trilliums. Foxgloves. Wild ceanothus. Californian poppies. Elegant seeding grasses. Shrubs I don’t recognise. Skunk cabbage.

Things we saw: A pioneer cemetery beside McKay’s Market. A ‘light show’ outside the hotel, with a film about Oregon then a surreal showing of a 10-minute condensed version of The Sound of Music, strangely absorbing and thoroughly enjoyable.

People we spoke to or saw: Friendly flaggers who waved us straight through the roadworks. A lady from Texas who I met on the beach after lunch. A man on a balcony whose dog was barking – when I looked up, the man was quietly waving. An e-bike owner outside McKay’s looking for inspiration to get riding.

Incidents: Tension in the camp.

Shopping: McKay’s Market, Gold Beach.

Accommodation: The Pacific Reef Hotel, the balcony with a spectacular view over the ocean. Just a microwave here.

Today’s sound: The Sound of Music!

Special moments: Not getting wet today and being able to enjoy the coastal views in the sunshine. The quiet road through the mature forest. Chatting with the lady outside the supermarket. Giving Philip an appreciation every time we stopped to help raise his spirits. Stopping whenever I wanted to take a photo. Walking down to the beach this evening, smooth, round pebbles glistening in the evening sun.

Positive experience from my journal: The view from the hotel balcony and sitting out there looking at the view.

Appreciation from my journal: Taking care of myself while Philip has been in his cave.

Blog comment from my mother.

Video: The coastline (15s and 10s). Philip riding along the coastline (20s).

Mementos: McKay’s receipt, Gold Beach.