by Philip

Saturday.

We wondered how late we would sleep on this rest day, as our bedrooms all have plate glass windows with no coverings – but in the end we all slept very well after our long ride yesterday. We began the day with a great breakfast at The Birds Cafe, a five minute walk from our house, with cinnamon buns and churros the order of the day, sitting on bar stools outside at a high table, looking out over the bay. There were several Tower of Jewels flowers, and we saw a hummingbird flitting at high speed around them and the nearby eucalyptus tree. The early morning fog cleared from the bay, the sun came out, and we were sheltered, so it was a good place to sit.

Returning home we all chilled for a while reading and sleeping while the laundry finished. A video call with family was conducted from the third bedroom which we have designated the library/sitting/chatting room, which also looks over the bay. The house is on Highway 1, but with the entrance into the lounge at street level and the bedrooms downstairs and at the back it is peaceful. From the deck outside, we can see a dilapidated jetty going out into the bay, which has been colonised by great blue herons, with six nests occupied by birds sitting on their eggs. There are cormorants keeping watch from posts on the jetty, and one seagull nest. Pelicans cruise around, with turkey vultures watching for an easy meal. As lunchtime approaches, it’s another beautiful day with clear blue skies and full sun, but also with another strong wind keeping the temperature down to 10 degrees. 

After a light lunch of left overs and toast, Liz had a call with Helen while Cathy and I went for a walk into the dunes in search of the ocean – initially along a road past a van offering “rental horses”, with at least 10 horses saddled and waiting in the shade for customers – and then a mile and a half on sandy dune paths which exercised muscle groups which have been ignored while cycling so it was quite challenging. The dunes were quite desolate with only a lizard (who ran over my feet) and a single turkey vulture for company. The low pine trees showed the strength of the prevailing winds, which have shaped them over the years. When we got to the beach there were a good number of people enjoying the sun, but the sea was rough and there were warning signs of rip tides so no one was swimming.  After her call, Liz went for a walk around the bay and found a delightful sculpture and a cheerful blue whale.

We found a road back into Bodega Bay and did the shopping for dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch. On the way back from the supermarket we saw an osprey flying up from the bay, with what we suspect was an eel in its talons for its own dinner.

A little later it was time to wash the bikes to get the week’s dust off before we head off again tomorrow. While doing this, the osprey returned and almost posed above our deck holding a fish – unfortunately my phone camera didn’t focus quickly enough to record the event, but it was amazing to see this magnificent bird close at hand. With bikes clean and osprey observed, it’s time for a pizza feast courtesy of Cathy who is on dinner duty today. 

Additional notes

Rest day in Bodega Bay, Sonoma county, CA

Weather: Sunny but misty so we couldn’t see the far side of the bay. It cleared early on. Strangely we could see our breath as we sat outside the cafe. 10 degrees in the strong wind.

Things we did: Slept late despite the sun shining through the plate glass windows that have no blinds. Went to breakfast at the Birds Cafe up the hill. Sat outside overlooking the bay and the sun came out. Back at home we had room time, so nice resting and taking time. Had a video call with Claire and John which I loved, they’re so enthusiastic and loving. Read The Importance of Being Kennedy part II (part I is back in McKinleyville recycling). While P and C went for a four-mile walk to the sand dunes and the sea, which was rough, I chatted with Helen who moved into her little house in Northfield Street last week. I walked down to the marina and along the bay a little way. We cleaned our bikes. After supper we read and had dessert together on the sitting bed. I walked down the steps to the edge of the lagoon and went for a night walk to make up my steps. 

Breakfast: Churros for me. Cinnamon buns for P and C. 

Lunch spot: At the table in the house, leftover roasted veg from Gualala and courgette pasta from last night.

Dinner (C): Pizza and tomatoes. Melon, banana and strawberries with maple ice cream. 

Wildlife: Hummingbird sightings outside the Birds Cafe. Pelicans. Turkey vultures. A lizard. An osprey fishing right outside our window, its markings clear as could be, an eel and later a fish in its talons. Six herons sitting on nests on the old pier. We could see them from the house. 

Plants: Colourful flowers by the bay. 

Things we saw: A beautiful wood and chain sculpture of a couple, simple and full of character. 

People we spoke to or saw: unusually no one!

Incidents: I wanted to look for a hummingbird feeder to carry with us and put up wherever we stay but P thought that would be madness. I was feeling tired and under par as I tend to on rest days, part of my relaxing process maybe. Walking isn’t very easy any more, our legs can only really cycle now. Despite thinking it was 4pm, all of a sudden it was 6.45. C and I agreed these rest days go very quickly and we could easily manage with two instead of one. 

Shopping: At the Pelican Plaza, Bodega Bay. C was in charge, sending us to find this or that.

Accommodation: Our amazing house on the bay.

Today’s sound: The call of the osprey from above the balcony as he hunted.

Today’s smell: Freshly fried churros.

Special moments: C said I was nice to Granny on the phone despite having to be firm. Then she distracted me by asking what I’d like to choose from the bike wear display – all the cycle tops were hung across the wall to dry. Going for a walk on my own to practise independence and adventure which have felt surprisingly lacking despite being on an epic Canada-Mexico expedition. We all shared a can of chilled oat coffee we bought to welcome C which I’ve been carrying – and it was delicious. At dusk, going down to the edge of the lagoon at the bottom of the steps, pretty, peaceful. On the sitting bed watching the lights twinkling on the other side of the bay. 

Positive experience from my journal: Resting in a room with such a beautiful view. 

Appreciation from my journal: Prioritising catching up with my Mum and keeping in touch with Claire and John, Helen, and Helen C.

Blog comment from Andy.

Video: Eucalyptus with hummingbird (57s + 2s). Turkey vulture above the sand dunes (6s). Sea and beach near Bodega Bay (10s + 17s). 

Mementos: Pelican Plaza receipt, Bodega Bay.