by Philip

Miles : 15. Ascent : 581’.

Running total : 988 miles

Today is our last day in continental Europe and then we will catch a ferry back to the UK. We needed to be at the port by 12:15 at the latest, so decided to give ourselves a bit of leeway – we didn’t want to rush our last morning – so got up early. The flat was wonderful – we had chosen it carefully, and it lived up to expectations – well furnished and equipped, and in the middle of the old town of Bilbao. We had our traditional breakfast of fruit (the host had left a large bowl of fruit for us) and yogurt, then walked round the corner in the early morning gloom as the sun and the city started to emerge, and found a baker. We shared a cinnamon pastry and a pain au chocolat – similar pastry to France but heavier fillings, and both delicious. The accompaniment was the bin lorries emptying the communal waste/recycling bins at either end of the street. 

We manhandled our bikes down the three flights of stairs without too much difficulty, loaded up and headed off at 9:30. The ride through Bilbao was lovely – initially straight down nearly empty streets, a mix of traditional and very modern architecture. It wasn’t long before cycle paths emerged,  taking us past the San Mamés football stadium, known colloquially as La Catedral, home to Athletic Bilbao, and to the river. A large rowing boat with rowers on both sides was out practising, and there were a lot of road cyclists enjoying the early morning peace. We followed the river more or less right out to in Europe) and Ikea. The cycle path was smooth and gently undulating, at one point passing through an underpass complete with climbing wall, then over a roundabout just for the cycle paths, and then we rounded a corner to see the port. 

Bilbao port is very different to either Plymouth or Roscoff from our outward journey – it is huge, with a container port, oil refineries, and enormous areas containing parts for wind turbines – one ship had just 12 turbine blades on it – they are massive. 

We got to the ferry area at about 11, expecting a wait with lots of other cyclists and little to do, but instead went straight to a check in booth to receive our bike labels and room keys. The police waved us through with a smile, and then for the first time we encountered the new ESS immigration system. Having had faces and fingerprints scanned we had to wait while a fleet of motorbike tourers went on board, and then it was our turn. We were instructed to push our bikes the length of the ship, and then took our time to secure them for the crossing, tying them up with the provided ropes and our own bunjies. Having done this, cars were brought in right behind us – it appears that we are the only cyclists on board compared to the 25 or so on the way out. 

Having found our cabin we took our lunch to a table with a view of wind turbine parts (we really know how to entertain ourselves) – the steel tubes lying on the ground which form the column of a turbine were as high as about six containers. 

Setting sail exactly on time we went outside to watch, enjoying the sunshine and breeze, and seeing a flotilla of yachts as people enjoyed their weekend. We read an information board about whale and dolphin watching, and had our fruit dessert. There was an announcement about a talk about whales and dolphins, so we headed to the bar to listen. It was interesting and eye-opening at the number of species which can be seen in the bay of Biscay with 30 of the 90 known species observed here. The charity “Orca” works with Britanny ferries to conduct observation and to educate about whales. We spent half an hour outside again with the binoculars, in the company of the lady who gave the presentation, but didn’t see anything. We’ll try again later. 

As we approach late afternoon we’ve had tea and cake, and have made a reservation for dinner at one of the on-board restaurants. The sea is comparatively smooth, and the crossing has started well. It’s 29 hours from Bilbao to Portsmouth, so we’re hopeful that it will stay calm. Home tomorrow!